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When 78-year-old Sonam Drukpa returned to the hilltop temple complex in Hajo in the winter of 2024, he was retracing a journey few Bhutanese of his generation still make. At 13, he had set out from Trashigang in eastern Bhutan with his mother—walking, riding ponies, and catching whatever transport they could find. They carried yak butter, cloth, and handmade goods to sell at winter markets along the way. Their destination was the Hayagriva Madhab temple on Manikuta Hill—a site they revered as Kushinagara, the Buddha’s final resting place, and as a shrine of Hayagriva, or Tamdrin, the wrathful horse-headed emanation of the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara. The stone temple enshrines an image of Hayagriva, now kept from public view, that Assamese Hindu devotees regard as an ...
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